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Reflection During Part 2 of this assignment I was mostly focused on the construction, and pattern making side of things. I wanted to take the opportunity to learn, and enhance my knowledge and skills with tailoring along with growing and developing my skills with up-cycling. I feel like learning about the traditional mens suit jacket and how it is constructed has and will help me for the future. Although, I did have some trouble figuring out and perfecting some parts, for example: trying to figure out the right way to sew the collar on the neckline. I think these were some of the obstacles that have pushed me behind. I have been challenged during this project - leading me to learn alot about myself through the process, as well as questioning myself. It has forced me to work out of my comfort zone, and work in a way different to how I usually work, which I'm still trying to figure out and adapt to. But I can definitely say after this project, I think I will be somewhat ready for the next and will be better planned and or equipped for it. In the end, I was unable to fully develop and expand my ideas, as I think I was fully immersed and too focused with construction. I'm hoping to bring my ideas that I was unable to present in this project to the next, with a clearer path and mind. Moreover, I think I definitely see my work-style to be quite experimental whilst using artisanal methods, such as tailoring and up-cycling throughout this project. I found that as I work, it was easy for me change, develop, and adapt my patterns as I go in my mind, instead of stopping and drafting another . It was easier for me to sketch out what it was in my mind on my ipad, visualising it, then making a quick toile.

I was able to use a suit jacket block and had the opportunity to adapt, manipulate, and experiment it to my own patterns, I was able to play with composition and again just trial and erroring throughout this process.

I wanted to try make these sleeves from Part 1 of this assignment, as I'm considering to integrate it for part 2 of this assignment. However, I think at the moment it may be irrelevant and should focus more on the construction and tailoring of a suit jacket.

For this Garment, I initially wanted to deconstruct a blazer to see it as a flat pattern to get a better understanding on how/what a blazer should be like, and how I could manipulate or adapt my own patterns - hoping to create a suit jacket from scratch in the future. I wanted to also focus on how the construction is made to be, I felt like deconstructing. experimenting, and trial and erroring, helped me a little to get that better understanding regarding construction. From the flat pieces I could clearly see how the patterns were cute, and stitched onto. I was thinking of using these flat pieces to create/make my own pattern - Unfortunately it wasn't resolved in the end. My other ideas was trying to create a collage or layers from the scrap fabric/deconstruction and integrating two other blazers - which acted as sleeves attached to the armholes. I'm not sure how I feel with how I finished this garment. I feel as if this whole process was for me to discover, and learn more about the construction of the suit jacket through experimenting and deconstructing this garment.

Members of the Men’s Dress Reform Party in London, 1929. In the early twentieth-century the Men's Dress Reform Group (MDRG), was historically known to take on the perceived physical and social constraints of men's clothing. In fact, they were instigated as a subsidiary of the New Health Society in central London. This group/party was founded by radiologist Alfred Jordan in in 1929 but disbanded in 1940. The party was created with the "intention of furthering human race through men's dress and correcting its various physical and social constraints" (Vestoj Editors, n.d), they did this by addressing the issue of health concerns of highly tailored and un-washable men's dress, as well as outlining aesthetic reform, attempting to further the beauty of men. It was proposed that the MDRP silhouette's was outlined to be looser, comfortable, and encouraged garments to be in brighter colours, as well as personally expressive; which would supposedly make men more aesthetically pleasing and attractive to their female counterparts. Findings: - The MDRP advocated for fine materials and craftsmanship - aiming to be less structured and lighter in their garments. However, this would of required the skills of a dressmakers as much as a tailor. This was a challenge to the ancient hierarchy of labour within the clothing trades - The MDRP wanted less structured and restricted clothing - instead wanted lighter, and brighter clothing. However, from what I have read it defeats the fact that tailoring techniques cannot really be utilised, as they intend to work with lightweight materials e.g silk - Instead it's more convenient for a dressmaker to do this. - They thought jackets were mostly unnecessary, ugly, and excessively padded - a "attractive" substitute to this was a knitted jumper. - It was highly prioritised that trousers were abolished. Instead shorts, or breeches was a better option as an alternative. - Men were increasingly enjoying the pleasers of modernity and consumerism through the medium of fashion. - The concerns of having a washable garment, so there was an advocation for unlined coats

Give your work context, locate your work within one of the following fashion categories. Base from my work produced, I think I see and would consider my work to be in the fashion category: 'Artisanal Clothing' - basing this off from part 1 of this project, as I have used tailoring techniques in part 1. However, If I considered past projects and assignments - my work and style could also be considered to be in the 'Experimental' side of fashion. Made in Aotearoa Project (2021) During this project I was supposedly designing a garment for the brand 'JIMMY D' the technique of up-cycling was utilised. I was able to create and adapt a new look/garment, by using two different blazers and combining and up-cycling both blazers together. Therefore, this could be considered to be in the 'Artisanal' side of fashion. From my present and past work, I've always been wanting to try and experiment with mens blazer and or suiting, and the different ways it could be manipulated, changed, adapted, and reformed into something different and not your usual traditional blazer. Kind of breaking or re-inventing, the restrictions of mens blazers and or suitings. I think this has been a somewhat of a recurring theme throughout my projects. I think think this idea of mine, has originated during a theory class in my first year as a fashion student. It was a presentation regarding Mid-Century Modern and fashion in those times, and the topic of mens fashion, particularly suitings was brought in - it was a presentation of its history and how it has evolved. However, from what I witnessed and realised there wasn't much change in men's suitings it was quite constant and exactly similar to what we see today. Continuing with part 2 of this brief, I have always had this idea in the back of my head of designing a deconstructed look with the suitings, I'm quite interested to how I would achieve this but without having to buy or find an existing old blazer or suit pants and deconstruct and up-cycle it. Instead, I want to be able to create my own patterns and starting from scratch in order to create this deconstructed look with mens suiting, whilst staying clean within my stitchings. However, this idea could be further developed. Artisanal Brands & Designers Brands and Designers in the Artisanal side of Fashion (RESEARCH IN PROGRESS)

Final Toile Garment. Reflection This brief started off with me experimenting and trying out pre-made patterns and trying my best to follow step-by-step to sew whatever garment - cleanly and streamed lined. During this process, it felt quite unfamiliar to me as I usually don't work with such restrictions, also most patterns that I would find would come with no instructions/directions on where to start/what to do next, so there were times where it was unclear and I questioned myself if I was doing this right. This then lead me to - using existing patterns and or blocks and adapting and changing it around. This was quite similar to me working on deconstructing an existing garment and up-cycling it. However, I found that changing an existing block was quite technical and challenging for me - and wasn't sure if I was going to the right direction. Which then gave me the idea of making my own patterns but through draping, which didn't really get me far either but I did have somewhat of an understanding of it - but I think I need more time to fully understand and master this technique. Towards the end, I ended up going back to using existing patterns/blocks and adapting it, but more subtly. However, during this time I had the thought of wanting to learn more of how a blazer/jacket suit is traditionally made, sewn or tailored, I thought that this could benefit me in the long run - as I had a thought of a deconstructed blazer but tailored with clean seams, stitches, and hems. But in order for me to do this, I thought I should learn the anatomy of a blazer in-depth. Although, throughout this brief I was quite focused on the collar and how I could manipulate and create silhouette in this area. I was gonna experiment with sleeves, but due to time constraints I was not able to do this. To conclude, this brief has very much taken me out of my comfort zone and has somewhat expanded my knowledge and skillset regarding with tailoring - not fully but I'd want to know more. It has also lead me to confusion throughout my experimentation process and questions that was later on answered. I regret not branching off more to other techniques I have not yet tried, but personally I was very immersed, invested, and focused on practicing and perfecting technical pattern making/cutting - I'm hoping to be able to expand this skillset in the future.

Concept ideations and developments, ideated from experimentations.

Critical Reflection || Reflect. Define. Expand. Research . What are your go-to research subjects, do you always research a similar type of aesthetic/time in history? When researching, I find that I tend to research more on the visual/imagery side of things based on the brief requirements/outline - which directly leads me to ideate things in my head and create mood boards of images, which helps me to generate and develop a few concept sketches and eventually a storyboard. Although I am aware that the importance of visual research is also just as important as contextual research, I was able to work and focus on the contextual side of things more during my ‘Blue Blood: Denim Project’. During the Denim Project, I was given the opportunity to work individually - this was a great opportunity as most times projects would be mostly done in a group-based setting. During this individual assignment one of the things I was able to focus more on was the contextual side of researching, for example: The Production of Denim History of Denim Jeans Levi Strauss Brand and Market Research The functionality and features of denim jeans. I definitely think I should also try to focus more on the contextual side when it comes to research rather than just sticking to mostly visual/image-based research. I think this could help me better understand the fashion era/history and could help me create better and clearer storyboards, and could help me backup my visual research - which may help me generate ideas and learn about techniques or features that I have not yet learned before. Making . ​​What have you enjoyed when moving from 2D to 3D, what methods of making have you had the most success with? During the Resene Colour group project, after sketching and rendering my initial designs and what I intended to do - I had the opportunity to work and improve on my pattern-making skills, more so on adapting manipulating patterns from an existing block pattern or an existing garment. Not gonna lie it was quite difficult and quite confusing at first, and sometimes till now I still get a bit confused and make a few errors, but I think that’s completely fine. Moreover, It was also my first project where I was able to experiment and learn more about ‘up-cycling’. I found it actually more challenging than what It was, and there's actually quite a process to it, but I honestly enjoyed the process. It was more than just “distressing a garment and your done” - but I had to be careful, think, and plan it out, before making any changes to a garment and somehow give it a new life, while letting it stay functional and wearable on the body and the whole mechanics of it - Also I was up-cycling a blazer. Therefore, I did do some sketches before making any new cuts to my blazer, then marking areas on my blazer where I’ll be making changes/cutting, etc. However, even during the cutting/up-cycling process, it wasn’t too accurate. However, instead of letting that lead me to a thought barrier - for some reason I actually enjoyed the inaccuracies of it, and it gave me more new ideas to further develop it but still staying close to my initial design, I think it really helped me in terms of flexibility. Define the type/level of making you want to work with. I’m definitely interested in up-cycling and altering clothes and would love to expand my skills and knowledge around it, and definitely experimentation. Tailoring does kind of catch my interest a little bit but I’m still quite unsure about it if I’ll have enough time for it and so forth. Moreover, I still feel like I lack a bit more in terms of making clothes to be working in the market, I’m confident I’ve learned a handful but I still feel like I can and may need more to expand my skills. Development . ​​Do you prefer to work directly on the dress form or sketch multiple iterations of one idea before even considering making a toile? Are you open to change that can occur when, at some point, a project takes on its own trajectory, or, do you like to know what the outcome will be from the start? I find that sketching multiple concept sketches, then scanning it digitally and rendering it helps me see my vision/what I’m trying to go for a bit more which helps me spot some changes I may need to take in the long run. However, I also find that I’m also quite flexible with changes/errors that may occur after or during the toiling/making process. I think I’m alright with not knowing what the exact outcome will be at the end, as long as I know that it was close to my initial concept, I am aware, and I enjoy it when there are some developments or changes from my initial concept at times. Communication ​​To date, how have you best articulated/communicated your work at the different stages of research, development, and final execution? Is it by using digital tools - video, Blogs, photography, photographic montage, or annotation – sketching, collaging? I definitely use a lot of digital tools, photographs, sketches, collaging, annotations, and maybe some mixed media like painting, etc. - in order to articulate and communicate my ideas better. Basically, a lot of imagery and some annotations on those imageries, and maybe a paragraph or two if needed. During the two 2021 lockdown briefs (Seeing things, Made in Aotearoa) - one was an individual project that required us to communicate and show our work through a website (Seeing things) - at first, the thought of it kinda made me unmotivated since I didn’t really know how making a website work, but eventually, I learned as I go and it was quite satisfying at the end to see the final outcome of the website. I definitely used a lot of photography, and some video graphics to better communicate my work. The other project (Made in Aotearoa, Jimmy D) - was a group project, and I was mostly in charge of laying things and the “aesthetics” when it came to our bookwork. I genuinely enjoyed making a story out of the imagery we had and fitting the right aesthetic to our brief. I think starting a website in the future for portfolio reasons would certainly help me keep track of my work and showcase my work to future employers/companies. Currently, at times I do casually post and upload my work on the social media platform ‘Instagram’ - and I do plan to create a website where I can showcase my work and journey. In addition, within my work I realised I've always unconsciously tried to intertwine the aspects of gender neutrality, throughout my work and or as I work. There are also times where I tend to add in aspects of who I am as person and aspects from my culture - However, it is always quite subtle when I do. Development ​​Challenge and expand your skill set. I know that these days the fashion industry is slowly advancing in terms of technology, and I think I would love to learn more about the new and upcoming technology and or machinery that is being introduced in the industry - the functionality of it, how it works, etc. For example, with pattern making I know that we’re able to make and adjust our patterns digitally - however, I still don’t have the knowledge around those areas yet, and I think in the last few years I just haven’t found the opportunity or time to due to current restrictions and events. Or, the other tech labs in AUT that we were introduced to from the start - I think we’ve never really had too many chances to actually properly learn and sit down to utilise them for our projects, maybe at least 1 or 2. Jewellery/accessory making is also another aspect that interested me, I had booked a session in one of the labs for an introduction and a quick workshop, however that also got canceled due to lockdown. This year with my Fashion Industry paper I'm trying to get a placement within the public relation side of the fashion industry - as I was quite interested to what's involved and to learn more about it, I feel like this will give me the opportunity to expand my knowledge within the industry. However, I'm also learning that public relation companies regarding fashion in New Zealand is quite limited - Though I had a thought of trying the magazine/editorial side of fashion aswell. In the end, I feel like me trying and taking these different opportunities has/is helping me expand and add to my skillset. Purpose ​​Why are you embarking on your final year of study, what do you want to achieve? Do you want to explore how to work in a more sustainable way, work with a specific material, be completely experimental, produce a body of work that helps you to gain employment, or produce a body of work that supports further study? Analyze and articulate what it is that drives you; is it politically motivated, commercially minded, or conceptually driven? In my final year of study, I want to be able to be completely experimental but not be ignorant of working sustainably in fashion. I do want to work towards a path where it does help me gain employment - I have always wanted to work somewhere abroad/overseas, but due to recent events I’m not really quite sure where or how yet. I also do want to learn more and further expand my studies in fashion while working, as I feel like I may still lack some knowledge and would love to grasp more. I think at this point I’m still trying to figure out my options, right now it’s still quite a bit vague to me what my plan is once I’ve finished my fashion studies. Initially, I did have goals, of starting my own brand, but I know realistically it is not easy to get there and requires a lot of processes beforehand, but I’m still not quite sure how to get there but if I had the opportunity I think I’d be willing to learn.… Secondly, If not a fashion brand, it was working towards working for a company or someone in the fashion industry abroad/overseas, while still doing my own thing on the sideline. Lastly, I’ve always thought back to this because it does interest me - it was the option if not working in the practical side of fashion, was to work somewhere in the fashion editorial or media side of fashion - somewhere along the lines of being a fashion assistant, or even a stylist (?) In addition, I definitely think I’m dominantly conceptually driven but also have a side of being commercially minded.

Pattern making/adaptation. Reflection This week I've made the final decision to create and work on something clean and as streamed lined along the lines of suitings or blazers. To some people this may be simple and easy to them but for me personally It's quite complex. I have taken the opportunity to take my time and understand the structure/anatomy of how blazers are made to the best of my ability. I can definitely say that traditional blazers are not easy but can be quite complex if you have not much knowledge around it. It may take a few practice and toiles till I'am able to reach the point where I can successfully sew one cleanly. In this week's toile I was mostly having trouble figuring out the Collar, and how I would adapt it and sew it onto the neckline. Thankfully I was able to refer back to Galina's pinterest board and teams page for some indication. For my final toile, I will be adding interfacing onto the bodice and within the collar - which could create more of a structured look. I can definitely say I'm quite immersed and focused to perfect this and achieve a streamlined, clean garment at the end even though it may seem like a basic piece. This has also expanded my knowledge with pattern making and adaptation, although I think there's still more space for improvement and more things I need to learn within this technique. Adding Interfacing - (Week 5)